**The Rise of Kosher Salt in Modern Cooking**
In the 1990s, when the author was a child, salt was simply “salt,” typically found in a blue cylindrical container. It was the only type of salt used in cooking, and cookbooks like *The Joy of Cooking* and *Mastering the Art of French Cooking* called for just “salt” in their recipes. However, over the past decade, kosher salt has become the preferred choice for many cooks. This shift began as chefs and home cooks started adopting kosher salt as their default, influenced by the growing popularity of specialty ingredients and the recommendations of influential cookbooks like *The Food Lab* by J. Kenji López-Alt and *Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat* by Samin Nosrat. Today, kosher salt is a staple in both professional and home kitchens, with brands like Diamond Crystal becoming a status symbol in culinary circles.
**Understanding Kosher Salt: What Makes It Different**
Kosher salt, like all salt, is composed of sodium chloride (NaCl) arranged in a crystal formation. What sets it apart is its larger, coarser crystals compared to the fine, uniform grains of table salt. Despite its name, kosher salt isn’t inherently linked to Jewish dietary laws but rather earned its name because it was originally used in the koshering process to draw blood from meat. Its larger crystals make it easier to handle, especially for chefs who season food by feel rather than by precise measurements. This ease of use is a key reason for its popularity, as it allows for more intuitive seasoning and less mess compared to finer salts.
**The Culinary Shift: From Table Salt to Kosher Salt**
The transition from table salt to kosher salt in American kitchens began in the 1980s, driven by the rise of farmers’ markets and the health-food movement. Chefs discovered various specialty salts, but kosher salt emerged as the go-to choice due to its practicality. Its coarser texture made it easier to pinch and sprinkle, which is particularly advantageous in busy restaurant kitchens where efficiency is crucial. Home cooks soon followed suit, influenced by the growing influence of the Food Network and online recipe platforms. Celebrities like Ina Garten further popularized kosher salt, and its visibility on cooking shows and in cookbooks solidified its place in home pantries.
**The Role of Recipes and Media in the Salt Revolution**
As cooking content moved online, recipes became more detailed and conversational, catering to a new generation of home cooks who sought guidance. This shift led to more specific salt recommendations, emphasizing the use of kosher salt. While table salt is often iodized, which is crucial for thyroid health, kosher salt is not. This has led to a decline in iodized salt consumption, potentially contributing to a rise in iodine deficiency disorders. Despite this, kosher salt remains a favorite in recipes, with many cookbooks and websites defaulting to it. However, as home cooks become more sophisticated, they are beginning to explore other salts for different uses.
**Health Implications: The Case for Iodized Salt**
The rise of kosher salt in home kitchens has led to a decline in the use of iodized table salt, which was introduced in the 1920s to combat iodine deficiency. While kosher salt lacks iodine, iodized table salt is essential for maintaining proper thyroid function and preventing conditions like hypothyroidism. The pendulum swing toward kosher salt, while beneficial for cooking, has inadvertently overlooked this critical public health benefit.ADDING
**Rethinking Salt Choices: A Balanced Approach**
Rather than adhering strictly to kosher salt, cooks should consider using different salts for different purposes. Iodized table salt is ideal for everyday cooking where iodine intake is a concern, while fleur de sel or flaky sea salts can enhance the flavor of finished dishes. Flavored salts add a burst of seasoning to snacks like popcorn. By embracing a variety of salts, home cooks can enjoy the benefits of each type without compromising on health. The key is to season intuitively, as professional chefs do, rather than adhering to strict measurements. This approach allows for greater flexibility and ensures that home cooks can benefit from both the culinary advantages of kosher salt and the health benefits of iodized salt.
