The Emilia Pérez Controversy and the Risks of Human Associations in Fashion
The fashion industry has long grappled with the challenges of associating with individuals who carry controversial pasts or preferences, as evidenced by the recent “Emilia Pérez” debacle. This incident underscores the vulnerabilities brands face when collaborating with human figures, whose unpredictability can spiral into public relations crises. According to Alla Valente, an associate at Forrester, a market research firm, third parties—such as celebrities, influencers, or public figures—are often the “biggest risk-management blind spot” for businesses. This risk is magnified in the fashion industry, where brand reputation is paramount and consumer trust is hard-won. While the “Emilia Pérez” situation may have caused limited damage to Saint Laurent, it highlights the broader issue of how brands navigate the unpredictable terrain of human collaborations.
Historical Precedents: When Stars Falter, Brands Suffer
The “Emilia Pérez” controversy is not an isolated incident. Fashion brands have long faced backlash due to their associations with controversial figures. In 2005, supermodel Kate Moss faced backlash after being photographed apparently using cocaine, leading Burberry and Chanel to sever ties with her. Similarly, in 2021, Chinese actor Zhang Zhehan was dropped by Lanvin and Pandora after photos of him visiting a Japanese World War II shrine sparked outrage. These incidents reveal a pattern: when public figures falter, the brands they represent often suffer collateral damage. Crisis consultant Risa Heller notes that while the fallout from “Emilia Pérez” may be relatively contained for Saint Laurent, the incident serves as a reminder of the risks inherent in human partnerships.
The Allure and Danger of Celebrity Collaborations
Despite these risks, brands continue to pursue collaborations with celebrities and public figures in an effort to connect with new audiences. As Heller explains, brands are constantly seeking innovative ways to engage consumers, and partnerships with high-profile individuals often seem like a shortcut to relevancy. For instance, Saint Laurent’s foray into film production—through projects like Paolo Sorrentino’s Parthenope and collaborations with directors Claire Denis and Jim Jarmusch—reflects a broader trend in the industry. The fashion sector, particularly in an era dominated by streaming platforms and shifting consumer preferences, sees film as a powerful tool for storytelling and brand promotion. However, as the “Emilia Pérez” episode demonstrates, these ventures also come with unforeseen risks.
The Role of Film in Brand Strategy and the Backlash Against “Emilia Pérez”
Saint Laurent’s ambitious ventures in film production—despite the “Emilia Pérez” backlash—highlight the growing intersection of fashion and cinema as a marketing strategy. The brand’s involvement in high-profile projects and its decision to feature actress Zoe Saldaña in a new campaign illustrate the appeal of leveraging film and celebrity endorsements to captivate audiences. However, the “Emilia Pérez” incident serves as a cautionary tale for brands considering similar strategies. While film collaborations offer creative and financial opportunities, they also introduce vulnerabilities tied to the actions and reputations of the individuals involved. As a result, other brands may now rethink their approach to such ventures, weighing the potential benefits against the risks of reputational damage.
Managing Reputational Risk in an Unpredictable Landscape
The fashion industry’s reliance on human figures—whether models, actors, or influencers—creates a delicate balancing act. While these partnerships can elevate a brand’s profile and attract new customers, they also expose the brand to the unpredictability of human behavior. Susan Scafidi, director of the Fashion Law Institute at Fordham University, notes that “reputational risk insurance” can mitigate some of these risks, covering costs related to crisis management and financial losses. However, no insurance policy can fully shield a brand from the reputational fallout of a scandal. As Heller observes, the “Emilia Pérez” situation was likely unforeseen, but it will now become a benchmark for risk assessment in the industry.
The Broader Implications for Fashion and Beyond
The “Emilia Pérez” incident is a microcosm of the broader challenges faced by brands in an era where consumer expectations and cultural sensitivities are evolving rapidly. While collaborations with human figures remain a potent tool for brand engagement, they also demand heightened vigilance and preparedness. As Saint Laurent continues to push forward with its film projects and other brand initiatives, the industry as a whole must grapple with the question of how to balance creativity and risk. For now, the “Emilia Pérez” debacle serves as a stark reminder that in the high-stakes world of fashion, even the most carefully crafted strategies can be derailed by the unpredictable actions of individuals. Brands, more than ever, must be prepared to adapt and respond in a world where reputation is a fragile and valuable commodity.